BAKERSFIELD, Calif. (KGET) — When I told him I was leaving for a week’s vacation in Mexico City, defense attorney David A. Torres began talking about suadero tacos with a fervor he usually saves for closing arguments.
He didn’t steer me wrong. I ate suadero tacos at multiple locations and enjoyed them immensely each time.
Suadero — meat taken from between the belly and the leg — as served in Mexico City is cooked into utter submission, practically melting in your mouth. I’ve had suadero tacos in California, but these were almost unrecognizable from what I’ve previously been served.
Following in the footsteps of Anthony Bourdain, I ate suadero tacos at Taqueria Los Cocuyos, one of the most popular spots in the city. They were outstanding, moist and powerfully flavored. I appreciated the taquero telling me to exercise caution with the green salsa, which he said was “muy caliente.”
I also had suadero tacos at Taqueria Arandas, which specializes in al pastor tacos, but the suadero was pretty great too.
In fact, I didn’t have a bad suadero taco during my time in the city, and I ate them almost every night. Some nights I’d be back at my hotel, pretty full, then think, “You know, I could handle three more tacos.” Out the door I went for another meal.
Tacos de Canasta Los Especiales, located just around the corner from my hotel in the Centro Historico, had lines no matter what time of day.
They offer a special of five tacos and a bottle of soda for 50 pesos, roughly U.S. $2.50. How do you say no to that?
The potato tacos were good unadorned, but they really came alive when bathed with a few spoonfuls of green salsa bearing chunks of guacamole. Also offered are tacos filled with chicharron or refried beans.
My time in Mexico City was brief, but I have a feeling I’ll be thinking about its tacos for quite a while.