Best Eats: Great goat at Gish Bac in LA


The red barbacoa at Gish Bac is served with shredded cabbage, limes and two large tortillas.

LOS ANGELES, Calif. (KGET) — On weekends at Gish Bac, a small restaurant in the Mid-Wilshire area surrounded by auto body shops and gas stations, wafts the aroma of barbacoa enchilada — goat barbacoa in red sauce — goat long-cooked with chiles, herbs and spices cooked until the meat achieves a surprising tenderness.

Scoop up a spoonful of the powerful, complex broth and you might ignore the goat for a few mouthfuls and start eating the dish like a soup. I’d plunk down a few bucks for a cup of that broth on the side of any entree.

And while the barbacoa is fantastic, Gish Bac has plenty to offer. There are huevos rancheros and chilaquiles for breakfast, several moles and soups, tortas, the pizza-like tlayudas and a dish for two called Plato Gish Bac, which comes with several meats, grilled cactus and scallions, red rice and beans.

Memela with chorizo and queso fresco.

I had a memela with chorizo and queso fresco. The waitress asked if I was OK with having it made with pork lard. Yes, I was.

Slicked with refried black beans, the memela was a perfect snack, salty, smoky, a slight tang from the cheese, and the masa kept its integrity bite after bite.

A cup of cafe de olla — the coffee is imported from Oaxaca — was the perfect way to end the meal.

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